Sooo la vie est
commencé. The last five days have been a dream blur. I’ve been at three
different beauteous hotels with flush toilets and the nine girls are awesome. We
are all insane in a good way and have already come up with a code word for
diarrhea (kiss kiss karaoke) so I would say we tore down all boundaries pretty
toute de suite.
I am sitting at my desk Lot II J 82 WE, Ivandry,
Antananrivo. My mosquito net next to me makes me feel like a princess.
Anyways will attempt to be chronological here:
Orientation was lot of us sitting around watching Roland
talk (approx rate of 2 words per min), having snack time and going to bed at 9
every night. We also took van rides into the paysage to visit some palaces
(palace is used loosely here – the precolonial palace was literally a one room
with a very tall roof and a bunk bed. Lots of wooden bowls and spears on the
walls. Post colonial palace looked like a special bird flew in a giant size
dollhouse from Angleterre and plopped it next to a huge rock where they used to
slay zebu (special cow with giant hump) back when Europeans were still just
vazahas (white people)in weird pants that bought your spices. This is a weird weird
place). We also went to three tombs which are basically located in this awesome
village where, as far as I can see, there is always someone playing an
accordion and no one wears shoes. People drop honey, candy, and sugar on rocks
near the tombs as offering to the gods because – I am not kidding here – “Life
is sweet”.
This is a place where you literally give gummy bears to a
God called Neny Be (Grandma) if you want your children to be blessed. These people are the chilliest ever.
We also went to a market and I bartered for flipflops and a
pair of earrings all of which cost me less than an American dollar combined (it
was 2100 ari ari). I almost got smacked in the face by 3 live goose that a man
was swinging around from a rope tied to his wrist. That was cool. It was also
enlightening to see that many goat chicken zebu livers all on one table under
one roof. There was a lot of mud and a
lot of people staring at me. It was fun!
The staff are:
Roland (director man) is a white white gentle giant from
Kansas who came here for Peace Corps and ended up staying for 20 years. He
speaks Malagasy, French and English, all very slowwwllly. This is the Malgache
way. Mora mora [moo-ra moor] = easy easy. There is no rush here ever. He is
big. He has no hair. He is awesome.
Hanta is assistant director and is Malgache woman that I am
having trouble describing because she is literally too nice that no words
suffice. Her laugh makes me feel like my brain has turned into a baby panda.
She speaks French even slower than Roland and when she went to Texas one time
everyone thought she was Mexican. I want her to adopt me.
I could go on with the other staff members but you basically
get the gist that I am landed in a soft smiling paradise. People were not lying
to me when they told me Malgache are the nicest ever. Even when people are
yelling vazah to me on the street I feel like they are my bffls. We got in a
cab (cab literally from the 1950s there was no dashboard, shocks or seatbelts)
and us and the cab driver literally laughed the entire way to the restaurant
for no apparent reason other than we were vazaha (white people). We would say
one word in Malgache and he would crack up into his steering wheel dying of
laughter I felt like I was on some kind of weird happy drug. It’s on my list as
the top 8 minutes of my life.
Meanwhile, every hotel owner of every hotel we’ve been to
has told us to come back soon! No but just like, to hang out. The second one
asked what an American hotel owner would be doing in this situation and was
surprised to learn he/she would probably be in a random office building
somewhere behind a swank desk instead of sitting around drinking beer with the
guests. Maisssss ca fait pas du sens quoi…
So… you get the picture. The hospitality is a real thing. I
have been with my host family 0 nights. This is the first night. They are:
Pere: Andriatahina Rakotonirainy
Mere: Jeanette Ravaoarisoa
Frere: Sitraka Andriatahina
(oh yeah forgot to mention all the names have like 34
letters in them) fml.
The dad (nickname Tahina) is a retired IR professor and is a
skinny tiny man with a strangely abrupt enormous laugh. The mom is a librarian
and is quite possibly the most timide malgache I have ever met here. The son is
23 and does something with computers and French people he also likes
photography. They also have 3 older daughters that I will probably meet. They
all speak French except for the mom. She is half Chinese. Their house is really
cute in a neighborhood not far from Tana (theres a flush toilet (!) and a
shower (!). And a tv). They keep telling me not to worry about noises on the
roof it’s just cats running around. T’inquietes, c’est les chats. This will be
awesome for my French. We are probably the same level language wise, except for
Jeanette. I feel like they were a little insulted I didn’t eat more rice but
they are grateful I actually speak French because I guess their last student
didn’t. Also, they were surprised to learn there were black people in New
England. Ah bon? They like chilli sauce which comes in this plastic bottle and
is kind of a fluorescent red color but I ate it anyway hopefully it won’t give
me the kiss kiss karaoke.
In other news, there is a pretty nice Jesus poster above my
bed. It is of Psalm 54. They are excited to take me to church. I told them I
wasn’t raised with religion and they seemed fine with that, besides the fact
that technically that makes me one of the “men without regard for God”
mentioned in aforementioned Psalm 54. The ones that Jesus describes as “strangers
attacking me” and “ruthless men seeking my life”.
Oh well. Tsara be ! [sara-bay] = very good. I don’t think
they take it too seriously because the son described church as “boring” and put
his head in his hands right in front of them at dinner, alors.
My princess mosquito net is calling me.
I don’t know the word for sleep in Malgache yet but if I did
I would insert it here. Instead I will say Faly mahalala anao [fah-ly
mah-la-la-la now] = nice to meetcha!
Life is Sweet. Love your blog! Sleep well.
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